Best Ball Pein Hammer Size Chart
Ball peen hammers are used for many purposes such as: cutting, punching, scraping, drilling and so on. There are different types of ball peen hammers available in the market today. Some of them have a handle while others do not.
The most popular type of ball peen hammer is the one with no handle but it does not mean that these tools cannot be used without any kind of handle at all.
The main purpose of using a ball peen hammer is to cut or scrape. However, there are other uses too. For example, when you need to punch holes in wood or metal objects.
You can use a ball peen hammer for this purpose too. When you want to drill out small holes in things like screws or nails then you will probably use a drill press instead of a regular hand drill.
There are various kinds of ball peen hammers available in the market today. The most common ones are:
1) Cross peen hammer – This type of ball peen hammer has two pieces of metal which are bent together and held together by a spring.
These types of hammers work well for drilling holes in wood, metal and plastic materials. They can also be used to make small cuts into paper or cardboard material.
2) Open-eye peen hammer – This type of ball peen hammer has a single piece of metal which has been bent in the shape of a letter P.
One end of this tool is flat while the other side is curved in a hook-like fashion.
3) Rivet hammers – This type of ball peen hammer has one or two pieces of metal that are bent in a U-shape like fashion.
One metal piece is longer than the other. The shorter piece is used as a handle while the longer piece can be placed on top of a rivet and then placed on top of the shorter piece. By striking the longer piece on top of the rivet using the hammer, this action will force the two pieces together.
4) Spud hammers – This type of ball peen hammer has one or two thin pieces of metal that have been bent in an S-shape like fashion.
This kind of tool is used for scraping and cutting purposes only.
5) Straight peen hammer – This type of ball peen hammer has one or two pieces of metal that are bent in a straight line.
One end of the head is flat while the other is curved slightly. This tool can be used for punching holes in materials which is similar to how a traditional hammer is used.
6) Weaver hammer – This type of ball peen hammer has one or two pieces of metal that are bent in a wide U-shape like fashion.
One end of the head is slightly curved while the other is flat. This tool can be used for scraping, cutting and pounding.
7) Half-face hammers – These types of ball peen hammers have one or two pieces of metal that are bent in an L-shape like fashion.
One end of the head is flat while the other end is curved slightly. This tool can be used for cutting and scraping.
8) Smoothing hammers – This type of ball peen hammer has one or two pieces of metal that are bent in an L-shape like fashion.
One end of the head is curved while the other end is slightly curved. This tool can be used for scraping, cutting and punching holes in materials which are similar to how a traditional hammer is used.
9) Rounding hammers – This type of ball peen hammer has one or two pieces of metal that are bent in an L-shape like fashion.
One end of the head is curved while the other end is curved much more than the other types of rounding hammers. This tool can be used for scraping, cutting, punching holes and also for bending materials.
10) Saddle hammers – This type of ball peen hammer has two pieces of metal that are bent in an L-shape like fashion. Both ends are curved slightly. This tool can be used for scraping and cutting purposes only.
15) Specialty hammers – There are various types of specialty hammers available in the market today. These include ball peen hammers that have screwdrivers, rulers and other similar tools attached to them. This can be used for light carpentry.
Uses of ball peen hammers
a) Nailing: Of course the most common use of a ball peen hammer is to use it to drive nails into various types of materials. Carpenters and other people who work with wood on a daily basis will find this tool extremely useful.
b) Other: Metal, drywall and other hard materials can also be nailed using this tool.
a) Harder materials: Since this type of hammer is made out of metal, it can be used to break hard materials such as glass and bricks. This allows demolition workers to quickly get rid of hard to reach materials more easily.
b) Soft materials: Since this tool can be used for scraping, it can also be used to take out the last bits of soft materials such as wood and drywall.
a) Scraping: Since a ball peen hammer can be used for scraping purposes, it can also be used for finishing touches with regard to decorating. This is especially true when working with wood.
b) Marking: Since most traditional ball peen hammers have the ability to punch holes in materials, they can be used for marking purposes. This is especially true when trying to mark a straight line.
Tips for using ball peen hammers
1) When using a ball peen hammer to drive nails into wood, the nail should be held at a 30 to 35 degree angle.
This is in between the 90 degree angle that a traditional claw hammer is held at and the 0 degree angle that a framing hammer is held at.
2) When using a ball peen hammer to bend materials such as metal or drywall, do not try to bend it back and forth.
This could cause it to break. Instead, move the tool back and forth along with the material. This allows the material to “give” more and reduces the risk of breaking the tool.
3) When using a ball peen hammer to scrape or cut materials, go slow.
Fast movements could cause the tool to slip and cut your hand. Also, when cutting materials, always cut from the bottom and up so that the material does not fall down on your hand.
4) When using a ball peen hammer to drive screws or other objects into materials such as wood, it is best to use a screwdriver instead.
While it is possible to do this, most carpenters will find it easier to use a screwdriver instead. The only time this tool works better is when there is not enough room to use a screwdriver.
5) Be careful when using a ball peen hammer as a punch.
The sharp edges of the tool can cut the surface that you are trying to mark. This is especially true when trying to mark a soft or malleable material. It is best to use a different type of hammer for this purpose.
6) Always wear safety goggles when working with any type of hammer.
Flying pieces of metal can damage eyes.
7) Remember that different types of materials are going to require different types of hammers.
Using the wrong tool for the job can not only be frustrating, but it can also be dangerous and cause the tool to break. It is best to use the right tool for the job.
These are just a few tips to keep in mind when working with this tool. There are many other accessories and tools that can make your work easier. It is best to research the different types of tools before settling on one.
When and how to sharpen it: These hammers do not require sharpening as much as other metal cutting tools due to the material that they are made out of (i.e. they do not cut like a saw).
They do, however, require routine maintenance to keep them in good condition. This is done by either grinding or filing the edges and faces of the hammer.
The best times to sharpen a hammer are:
1) When it begins to lose its effectiveness (i.
e. starts to bounce off the nail instead of driving it flush like it used to).
2) When it begins to damage the material that you are using it on (i.
e. starts to leave deep scratches in the wood).
3) When it begins to damage itself (i.
e. you notice the edge of the face becoming rounded).
It is usually a good idea to keep the edges and faces of your hammer sharp. However, if you are using your hammer mainly for driving nails, then you may want to only keep the edges sharp. This will prolong the life of your hammer because the faces act as guides to stop the nail.
You only need the edges sharpened when they become worn.
Most professionals keep a hammer stone in their apron for keeping the edges sharp. These stones are like small pieces of sandpaper, but made of a hard material such as quartz or corundum (i.e.
sandpaper is made of cellulose). These are available at most hardware stores or you can use a leather strap with some very fine grit glued to it. You should only have to resharpen the edges every 5-10 hours of use.
When sharpening a hammer, hold it in your hand that you normally would and hold the stone (or leather strap) against an edge and move it back and forth like you are trying to start a fire with a piece of steel (i.e. striking motion).
Do this on all edges and faces of the hammer as necessary. It is a good idea to do this right after you use the hammer, while it is still hot (literally and figuratively) so that you take off only the minimum amount of material necessary to sharpen it. For example, if you just used the claw part of your hammer to pull down a sheet of drywall, only sharpen the edges of the face. Do not bother sharpening the edges of the hammer head, as that is what causes it to become rounded.
As for filing, this should only be used on a hammer that you do not plan on using for anything other than heavy work (i.e. demolition).
If the faces or edges become rounded, then you will have to file them to keep the hammer effective. This should be done before you use the hammer or at least on a regular basis (i.e. before each job), so that you do not end up with poorly shaped faces or edges.
How to Place the Correct Edge: There are three different edges on a hammer: The pein, the flat face, and the claw (or scarf) edge. Most hammers have two flat faces, one short and one long. The short one is used for light work and driving pins.
The long one is for general pounding and the edge can be used for cutting mild steel and wood. Most hammers also have a pein (or top) and a claw edge. The pein edge is used to put a fine edge on the hammer or “peen” rivets in place by striking it with a ball-peen hammer. You can buy special tools to do this with, but a heavy hammer will work just as well. The claw edge is for getting material out of the way and pulling things apart. It can also be used for cutting wood and metal.
Using a Carpenters Hammer: When you are using a carpenter’s hammer, there are three different ways to hold it. The first is to hold it by the short face in your palm and grip it tightly. This is good for precision driving and light work.
The second way is to hold it by the long face with your first three fingers, leaving your index finger and thumb extended. Grip it loosely and this will give you more of a “pounding” action. This is good for general work. The third way is to hold it by the short face in your fist and use the long face to pull the hammer toward you (almost like pulling a rope). This gives you the best of both worlds and can be used for most things, but it is more difficult to master.
Using a Finnishing Hammer: When using a finnishing hammer, there are two ways to hold it. The first is similar to the first way of holding the carpenter’s hammer, but more tightly. This is good for precision and light work.
The second way is to hold it by the short face in your palm and grip it tightly. This gives you more power, but sacrifices some precision. It can also be used as a carpenter’s hammer when striking with the long face or the pein.
Using a Mallet: When using a mallet, the way you hold it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you are trying to drive in several nails, then you should grip the handle tightly. This is good for repetitive work.
If you are trying to drive in a single nail or put an edge on something, then you should hold it loosely. This gives you more precision, but less endurance.
Other Things You Can Do: There are many other things that you can do when using a hammer. You can place the short face between your index and middle finger, then curl your hand into a fist. This will give you something of a “pistol-grip” because your fingers will be curled around the hammer.
This is good for general work and reduces strain on your wrist. You can also place the short face between your index and second finger. This gives you the best grip for precision driving, but it is tiring on your wrist.
Using a Ball Peen Hammer: When using a ball-peen hammer, there are two different ways you can hold it. The first is to hold the handle with your thumb and first two fingers. Place your last two fingers on the top of the hammer head for control.
This grip is good for precision peening (which we will discuss next lesson). The second way is similar to holding a golf club. Hold the handle tightly with your thumb and first two fingers. Place your last two fingers under the hammer head for control. This grip is good for general use.
Most of the time when using a ball-peen hammer, you will probably use the first grip because it is quicker and easier to control. There are also other things you can do with a ball-peen hammer. You can place the flat face against the short edge of a chisel and strike it with a carpenter’s hammer.
This will “roll” or round off the sharp edge of the chisel. You can also strike the rounded face of the hammer with a carpenter’s hammer to give an edge to something (such as the inside or outside corner of a molding).
Sets: Most people have a mallet, a carpenter’s hammer and a finnishing hammer in their toolbox. Some people also have a ball-peen hammer. I recommend that you get a good-quality ball-peen, but if you cannot afford it, then buy one later.
It is much more important to have a good carpenter’s and finnisher’s hammer. These are the three most-used tools in carpentry, so it is good to have good ones.
Mallet: The most common mallet is a simple rounded hammer head on a hardwood handle. Some people prefer the rubber heads because they don’t do as much damage to the wood. Personally, I like the traditional style, but that’s just me.
Some people also prefer the plastic ones because they are lighter and won’t damage the wood as easily, but I don’t like them because they tend to “tear” the wood instead of “hitting” it, which leaves splinters.
Carpenter’s Hammer: The most common carpenter’s hammer has a round (or “ball”) on one side of the flat face. This is good for general use; you can either hit with the flat or the round face. The other side of the face is “tapered”.
This means that it is narrower near the tip and wider near the handle. This is good for starting nails, but you should only use it for that if you cannot get a “finishing” hammer. The last thing you want to do is start nails with a round face because they will get “cupped” and bent out of shape.
Finnishing Hammer: The finnishing (or “claw” or “olly” or “nail-setting”) hammer is used for setting nails and pulling them out. They are also good for pulling up stubborn nails (or even small boards). The most common type of finnisher has a round face, a straight claw and a long handle.
This one is good for general use, but there are many other kinds. One type of claw is curved (or “crescent”), which can be good for pulling nails out, but it does not give as much leverage as the straight claw. The other common type of claw has an offset handle. This one is good for pulling up stubborn nails. The curved claw on this type is stronger than the crescent-type claw. Another type of claw is the nylon hammer. This one is basically a small claw on a small hammer. It is good for pulling up stubborn nails (and much cheaper than a specialty claw). Although I prefer the general-purpose claw, any of these will do.
There are also some specialized finnishers. One type has a short claw and an extra heavy hammer head. This one is good for demo work and heavy pulling (such as hardwood floors).
Another type has interchangeable ends. One end is like a regular claw; the other end has a flat, spade-type head. This one is good for general use.
Files: Files are used to keep your nails sharp and flat (or “flush”); you should file down the tops and edges after each nail to make them smooth. Most people have two or three files of different shapes and sizes. These are cheap, so you might as well get some.
Look for medium-grit files at the hardware store.
Wrenches: You will need at least two adjustable wrenches (preferably crescent types) of various sizes from very small to very large.
Pliers: You will need a pair of needle-nose pliers and a pair or regular pliers. The needle-nose are good for grabbing small things, bending wire and picking things up. The regular pliers are good for twisting wire, grabbing and pulling and other stuff.
“Vise-Grips” (sometimes called “locking pliers”) are similar to pliers, but stronger; they can grab something that you would need a pipe wrench for!
Crowbar: You will need a crowbar for prying stuff, especially nails. This is more important than a hammer in some situations.
Pipe Wrench: A pipe wrench (or “crescent”) is good for turning things that you can’t get a regular wrench on. They aren’t as strong as a regular wrench or crowbar, but they have the advantage of getting into places a crowbar cannot. One special type of pipe wrench is called an oil-can (“monkey”) wrench.
Putty Knives: You will need a good putty knife for working with drywall joint compound (for filling in nail holes before painting).
Utility Knife: You will need some sort of utility knife for cutting drywall and carpet, among other things.
Tape Measure: You will find many uses for a tape measure. They are pretty cheap; get a 25-footer.
Mason’s Level: You will need a good mason’s level to keep things straight and plumb. There are different types, so get the one that you think is best.
Chalk Line: You will need some way to draw straight lines of various lengths on floors and walls. Traditionally, this is done with a piece of white chalk attached to (white) floss (called “chalk-line”). This is pretty inaccurate, so some people prefer a laser line.
Power Tools: There are various power tools to make your life easier. The most common are drills and sanders of various types. A flooring-sander is very useful for taking the old finish off of floors before you refinish them.
An electric sander (either hand-held or on a stand) is good for shaping and finishing wood and drywall. A drill is good for screwing and unscrewing things. Other power tools exist, but these are the most useful. The only problem with power tools is that they tend to be _really_ expensive. If you can get your hands on some cheap ones at a garage sale or something, go for it. Otherwise, you might want to consider saving up for a while before you buy them.
Also, be careful around these powerful tools!
Sources & references used in this article:
EYFS Best Practice: All about… Woodwork by P Moorhouse – Nursery World, 2012 – magonlinelibrary.com
Under the hammer by P Moorhouse – Nursery World, 2018 – magonlinelibrary.com
The fitness and functionality of culturally evolved communication systems by N Fay, S Garrod, L Roberts – … Transactions of the Royal …, 2008 – royalsocietypublishing.org
Construction learning as a function of frequency, frequency distribution, and function by NC Ellis, F Ferreira–Junior – The Modern Language Journal, 2009 – Wiley Online Library
Maxwell’s Silver Hammer by E Allington – The Journal of Modern Craft, 2010 – Taylor & Francis